If it’s your first time dealing with a Porsche brake replacement job, you are probably in disbelief in how much your dealership wants to charge you. In this article, we’ll help you understand why dealerships charge so much and how you can save over $1,000 on your brake job.
Quick Answer
To replace the front and rear brakes, expect to pay between $2,500 to $3,500 at a Porsche dealership or around $1,800 to $3,000 at an independent Porsche mechanic. However, if you are somewhat handy, you can replace your brakes yourself for less than $1,000.
Why does replacing the brakes on a Porsche cost so much?
Compared to an ordinary car, replacing the brakes on your Porsche is so much more expensive due to exorbitant price Porsche dealerships charge for parts and labor. Firstly, Porsche dealerships are required to used genuine Porsche parts (aka original equipment / OE parts). These parts are usually highly marked up versions of parts made by original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) like Bosch and Brembo. Secondly, Porsche dealerships charge anywhere from $180 to $250 an hour for labor whereas a Toyota dealership may only charge $120 an hour.
Let’s take a close look at how much you can expect to pay for replacing the front and rear brakes on a 2014 Porsche 911 Carrera S. You can expect a similar price breakdown for other Porsche models as well.
Item
Dealership
2x Front Brake Rotor
$602
1x Front Brake Pads
$264
2x Rear Brake Rotor
$476
1x Rear Brake Pad
$271
4x Brake Sensors
$200
4x Brake Hardware
$200
8x Brake Caliper Bolt
$40
2 Hours Labor, Front
$400
2 Hours Labor, Rear
$400
Total
$2,813
How to save money on a Porsche brake replacement?
As we mentioned above, replacing the brakes on your Porsche is expensive due to parts and labor. While Porsche parts and labor are very expensive, replacing the brakes on a Porsche is no more difficult than replacing the brakes on an ordinary car. Let’s explore how you can save money by either doing-it-yourself (DIY) or visiting an independent mechanic.
Do-It-Yourself
DIY is a great way to save up to $2,000 replacing your brakes because you can avoid overpriced “genuine” Porsche parts. While you might be concerned about using non-genuine parts, most genuine Porsche parts are actually rebranded parts made by other manufacturers. For example, many genuine Porsche brake pads are made by Textar, which you can purchase a set for around $100 vs. around $260 for “genuine” Porsche pads.
Let’s see how much you can save by doing-it-yourself and using OE-equivalent parts.
Item
Dealership
DIY
2x Front Brake Rotor
$602
$258
1x Front Brake Pads
$264
$111
2x Rear Brake Rotor
$476
$220
1x Rear Brake Pad
$271
$134
4x Brake Sensors
$200
$24
4x Brake Hardware
$200
$200
8x Brake Caliper Bolt
$40
$40
2 Hours Labor, Front
$400
N/A
2 Hours Labor, Rear
$400
N/A
Total
$2,813
$987
Independent Porsche Mechanic
Alternatively, if you are not comfortable replacing the brakes on your Porsche yourself, hiring an independent Porsche mechanic is still a great way to save money. Firstly, an independent Porsche mechanic, typically charges around $120 to $150 per labor hour, so you’ll save at least $200 on labor. Secondly, an independent Porsche mechanic is often willing to use OE-equivalent parts, which will save you a significant amount of money.
While going to an independent mechanic will save you money, you can still expect to pay around $1,800 to $3,000 to replace your brakes. This is because independent mechanics mark up the price of parts to make money. To avoid this surcharge, we recommend calling around to find a reputable independent mechanic that allows customers to supply their own parts. This will allow you get the best deal on parts and only have to cover 4 to 5 hours of labor.
Conclusion
In summary, replacing the brakes on a Porsche is indeed very expensive. While we agree Porsches are special cars, replacing the brakes is no more difficult than on an ordinary car. To save yourself $1,000 or more, skip the Porsche dealership and either do-it-yourself or visit an independent Porsche mechanic.
The brake pads on a Porsche can last around 30,000 to 40,000 miles under normal driving conditions. Since all modern Porsches use brake pad sensors, you can easily tell when it is time to replace your brakes because a brake warning light will appear in the instrument cluster. Alternatively, you can use a brake pad measuring tool to determine when the brake pads are nearing the end of their life.
Do I need to replace the brake pads and rotors at the same time?
Many Porsche dealerships will insist on replacing the brake pads and rotors at the same time. While we are often skeptical of dealership service centers, we generally agree. Typically on a Porsche, by the time the brake pads need to be replaced, your car has eaten through a significant amount of brake rotor material.
To inspect your brake rotor, run your fingernail across the edge of the brake rotor. If there is a lip your fingernail catches on, it’s a good idea to replace your brake rotor. And even if there isn’t a lip on the edge of the rotor, by replacing the brake pads and rotors at the same time, you’ll reduce the risks of brake squeal and vibration.
My brakes are squealing or vibrating. Do I need to replace my brakes?
Not necessarily. Brakes can squeal or vibration for numerous reasons. Before running out and spending a ton of money replacing your brakes, check out this video below for helpful diagnostic tips and potential fixes.
Is it time to fit your beloved Porsche with a new set of tires, and you can’t decide what to buy? As you probably know, making the correct choice here is critical, as tires hugely impact how the car handles and rides. But with so many options on the market, this may not be as easy as it seems at first glance. And to make things even worse, there are several types of tires, each aiming at a different application. So, to help you decide, we’ll first explain what each tire type is for. And once that is cleared out, we’ll select the best tires you can buy for your Porsche in 2023 in each category.
Which tire types are available for my Porsche?
Max Performance Summer Tires
For year around, warm climates
For drivers who have performance street driving in mind, summer tires are the obvious first choice. And among them, Max Performance Summer tires will be the best pick for your Porsche, as they offer the most grip in dry and wet conditions, combined with superior handling and precise steering response. But as with everything, there are some downsides, including quicker wear and harsher ride when compared to other kinds of summer tires. This is because Max Performance Summer tires use softer rubber compounds and have stiffer construction. But because of their shallower tread pattern, summer tires don’t offer adequate grip in near-freezing temperatures.
Winter Tires
For harsh winter driving
Winter tires are a must-have If there’s a lot of snow and ice where you live and drive. These are critical for your safety, even if your Porsche has an all-wheel drive system. Winter tires are made from a special rubber compound and a deep tread pattern t with a lot of sipes, providing more grip in slippery conditions. These features, however, also make winter tires unsuitable for warm weather conditions. This is because they become too soft and can overheat under heavy loads when the temperature increases.
Note: If you plan to run winter tires, we recommend that you have another set of wheels and tires to use when temperatures warm up.
All-Season Tires
For climates with mild winters (light snow)
For drivers who want a performance-oriented tire that they can use year around, high-performance all-season tires are the answer. They use a softer rubber compound and have a deeper tread pattern than summer tires, which provides a better grip in colder temperatures and makes them more effective on wet and snowy roads. And on the other hand, all-season tires offer excellent ride comfort and tread life compared to summer and winter tires. However, being the jack-of-all-trades, all-season tires cannot match the performance of summer and winter tires in their respective climates. Still, these tires could be the perfect match if you use your Porsche as a daily driver and don’t push it to the limit.
Touring tires
For frequent use on highways
Touring tires might be the perfect pick for drivers who spend most of their time on the highway and cover many miles. They are designed to offer smooth and comfortable rides combined with excellent durability. This is possible thanks to their harder rubber compound and a shallower tread pattern. And while all this makes them ideal for long-distance traveling, touring tires are less suitable for extreme weather conditions or off-road driving.
All-terrain tires
For offroad use
As you probably know, Porsche Cayenne has one of the best all-wheel-drive systems, which makes it a capable offroader. But to truly exploit this potential, you might consider equipping it with a set of all-terrain tires. With deeper treads and large block-like chunks of rubber, these have a superior grip on gravel or mud. In addition, all-terrain tires have a robust construction, making them less prone to damage. On the downside, they are less comfortable and noisier than touring tires and are not excellent on wet or snowy roads.
What do numbers on the tire’s sidewall mean?
Every road tire has a series of numbers and letters on its sidewall, with each having its meaning. And if you know what these are, choosing between different tire variants will be much easier.
Dimensions
First is the tire dimension, which, in most cases, is shown as a three-number sequence. For example, let’s take a tire in 245/35 R19 dimension. The first number here – 245 – represents its width in millimeters. Next, following the slash mark is the number 35, which refers to the height of the sidewall. Instead of a number in millimeters, this is a percentage of the width. Then, we have the letter R, which means the tire has radial construction, which is used on almost all road tires today. Lastly, we have the diameter of the wheel in inches – 19 in this case – on which the tire fits.
Load Capacity Index
Next, following the dimensions, we have the load capacity index. This number has two or three digits and tells us about the maximum weight tire can safely carry. The higher this value is, the more load the tire can safely support. For instance, if you have tires with a load capacity index of 95, each of them can be loaded with 1521 lbs.
Speed Index
Behind the load index, you’ll find a letter called the speed index. It indicates the maximum speed at which the tire can be safely driven. And like with the load index, a higher letter (in alphabetical order) represents the higher speed rating. For example, if you have tires with a speed index of V, you can drive safely up to 149 mph.
DOT Number
Lastly, we have the DOT number, with DOT being short for Department of Transportation. This is a tire’s unique identification that begins with the “DOT” followed by a series of numbers and letters. Information contained by this includes the plant where the tire was made and, more importantly, the manufacturing date in MM/YY format. So, if the tire’s DOT number has a 0421 at the end, it was made in the fourth week of 2021.
Deciding between different tire sizes for your Porsche
With dimensions and other symbols explained, let’s now see what needs to be considered if you want to switch to a different tire size. As you’ve probably noticed, your Porsche has several optional tire sizes in addition to those currently fitted. So, let’s explain what might happen if you change the tire’s width or its sidewall’s thickness.
Wider vs. Narrower Tires
One thing that immensely impacts the car’s handling and performance is the tire width. Wider tires have a larger contact surface with the road beneath, which ensures more grip and improves handling, especially in dry conditions. In addition, car, especially sporty ones, look better with wider tires fitted. On the downside, they have more rolling resistance – which reduces gas mileage – and may be noisier. In contrast, narrower tires are usually quieter and offer better fuel efficiency. Additionally, narrow snow tires can be an excellent option, as they can cut through snow more effectively.
Thicker vs. Thinner Tires
Another thing you might be interested in is switching to a different wheel size, like going from 18 to 19-inch wheels. And while doing so, the tire’s overall diameter must remain unchanged to ensure the speedometer and various driver-assistance systems will work correctly. So, if fitting larger wheels, you’ll need to compensate for their increased diameter by using a tire with a thinner sidewall. Similarly, you’ll need tires with thicker sidewalls if switching to smaller wheels. And the thickness, or the height of the sidewall, can significantly change how the car behaves and performs on the road.
Thicker tires are, in most cases, better at absorbing bumps and vibrations, providing a smoother ride. And because their sidewalls have more flexibility, they are less likely to be damaged when going over curbs or potholes. On the downside, thicker tires are less responsive and may affect handling. Conversely, better handling, sharper steering response, and overall performance improvement are features tires with thinner sidewalls have to offer. But, as you may expect, these make the ride harsher and are more prone to damage from road hazards.
What is the difference between car and SUV tires?
By now, you might’ve noticed a category of tires dedicated solely to SUVs and crossovers. And while these may at first look quite similar to those intended for sedans or sports cars, there are several key differences between them.
First, because the SUVs are heavy, their tires must have more robust construction. This allows them to safely support the extra weight in all conditions. In addition, such tires are less prone to get damaged while going over bumps, curb stones, and other obstacles. Moreover, SUV tires usually have a more durable rubber compound, which reduces wear, especially at highway speeds. Lastly, their treads are designed to offer more grip on loose surfaces, such as wet grass or mud, when compared to similar car tires.
When is the time to get new tires on my Porsche?
Like most other car owners, you’re probably wondering when’s the best time to get a new set of tires. Have those fitted to your Porsche past their best, or there’s some more life left in them? Well, to answer this question, you must consider several critical factors.
The first and easiest to check is the tire depth, which you can measure with a tread depth gauge. With treads not deep enough, the tires will not perform well on wet and loose surfaces. So, if the tread depth on your tires is around 2/32 of an inch or less, they are worn, and you should get new ones.
Then, even if there’s enough tread, you should check how old the tires are. This is because the rubber compound becomes hard and brittle over time, reducing the tire’s flexibility and overall grip. As a result, tires older than six years should be replaced even if they haven’t done a lot of miles.
Lastly, we have tread wear, which may be uneven across the tire’s surface. Several things can cause this, with incorrect tire pressure being one of them. The problem is more severe if only one side of the tire is worn, as this indicates a suspension-related problem. This can be anything from misaligned wheels to damaged or worn suspension components. Whatever the issue may be, you should fix it before fitting new tires.
Best tires for your Porsche sports car (911, Cayman, or Panamera)
If you’ve made it this far, you probably know which tire category is right for you. Now, let’s help you pick the right tire. To simplify the tire buying process, we’ve used ratings and reviews from www.tirerack.com to identify the best tires in each class for your Porsche or other sports car.
Note: You won’t find any budget tires on our recommendation list. While we understand many car owners are budget conscious, higher end tires can actually be cheaper because many offer treadwear and road hazard warranties. Additionally, because tires last for several years, you don’t want to pick a bad tire that will leave you with a suboptimal driving experience.
Just how fast is the new 2021 Porsche 911 Turbo S (992)? The Porsche 911 GT3 RS gets all the hype, but the new 992 Turbo S is actually faster and puts several hypercars to shame.
As shown in the video below, Sport Auto recently tested the 992 Turbo S on Hockenheim Grand Prix and achieved a blistering 1 minute, 47.8 second (1:47.8) lap time. Had the car been on R-compound tires, Christian Gebhardt could have easily shaved off another 1 to 2 seconds.
How is the 2021 Porsche 911 Turbo S so fast?
Let’s start by putting the 992’s lap time into perspective by comparing it to Christian’s closest lap times.
Mercedes-AMG GT R Pro (577 hp, 516 ft-lbs, 3,600 lbs)
Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 R
1:48.0
McLaren 600 LT (592 hp, 457 ft-lbs, 3100 lbs)
Pirelli P Zero Trofeo R
1:48.9
Lamborghini Huracán Evo (631 hp, 443 ft-lbs, 3135 lbs)
Pirelli P Zero Trofeo R
1:49.0
Despite being on street tires and weighing in at a heavy 3,600 pounds, the new Porsche 911 Turbo S seems to defy physics to beat out several, track-focused hypercars. Sure the 992 Turbo S has 640 horsepower and 590 ft-lbs of torque, but it’s really comes down to the 992’s ability to inspire driver confidence and achieve exceptional mechanic grip.
Porsche delivers this insane level of performance through its world-class engineering and the following cutting edge gadgets:
Sophisticated all-wheel drive system
Lightning fast, 8-speed PDK transmission
Porsche Torque Vectoring
Porsche Dynamic Chassis Control (hydraulically controlled sway bars)
Dynamic engine mounts
Rear axle steering
Porsche Active Aerodynamics (auto-deploying front spoiler and rear wing)
The Porsche GT2 and GT3 RS get all the hype nowadays. However, the Porsche 911 Turbo S is a wolf in sheep’s clothing. It doesn’t have all the loud aero bits and lightweight gimmicks, but it’s certainly the faster Porsche in the hands of mere mortals. If you’re looking for a car that has no problem beating up hypercars yet is comfortable to live with, we highly recommend you consider the new Porsche 992 Turbo S.
Wheel spacers are essential to enhancing your stance life game. Whether you’re just looking to give your car a flush or hellaflush stance, improve your car’s handling, or something else, this guide is for you. We’ll show you how to find the right wheel spacers for your car in 5 EASY STEPS.
Step 1: Finalize your wheel, tire, ride height, and alignment setup first
Don’t just run out and buy wheel spacers that people on car forums recommend. While these people mean well, this is bad advice. The combination of wheels, tires, ride height, and alignment settings all affect a car’s stance, so every car is unique.
It’s pretty obvious how wheels affect a car’s stance, however, many people don’t realize that tires do as well. Let’s say you go from a 235 width tires to 245s. The tire is going to stick further out on both sides of the wheel, which will give your car a visually wider stance.
You also need to consider how your car’s alignment, specifically camber, affects your stance. The more negative camber you have, the more the top of the wheels will stick into the fender wells. On the other hand, positive camber will have the opposite effect.
Ride height will have a similar effect as camber on your car’s stance. If you’ve ever lowered your car, you probably noticed that the wheels appear more sunken in afterwards. This happens because negative camber increases as you lower a car.
So, before you go out and buy wheel spacers, make sure you’ve settled on what wheels, tires, ride height, and alignment settings you’ll be running. By determining your setup first, you can purchase the right wheel spacers the first time around.
Step 2: Determine how you want your wheels to sit
Alright, now it’s time to determine how flush or hellaflush you want your wheels to be. Take a look at your car from multiple angles to get a sense of what will look good. We recommend keeping the top of your tires just slightly inside the fenders, so you don’t get any rubbing.
Pro Tip: As you push your wheels out, the gap between your tire and fender will appear larger.
Step 3: Take measurements to determine the right wheel spacer width
When you have your stance all figured out, use a framing square or ruler to measure how far you need to push the wheels out. Consider how far out the top, middle, and bottom of each wheel will sit. Finally, have a few friends sit inside your car, so you can double check that your tires won’t rub when the suspension is compressed.
Note: To get the right stance, you may need to run different width wheel spacers in the front and the rear.
Step 4: Pick the right wheel spacer style
Cars that use wheel bolts (mainly European cars)
European cars usually use wheel bolts to secure the wheels to the hubs. In this case, you’ll want to use slip-on style wheel spacer. This type sits on the wheel hub and is sandwiched in place by the wheel.
To ensure you can secure your wheels properly, you will also need to use new wheel bolts that are longer than the originals by the width of the wheel spacers. Many high quality wheel spacers will include the appropriate length wheel bolts for your specific vehicle.
Cars that use lug nuts (mainly American and Asian cars)
American and Asian cars typically use lug nuts to secure the wheels. Because of this, you have two options. Your easiest solution is to go with wheel spacers that bolt onto the hub. The better solution is to use a slip-on wheel spacer and longer wheel studs, however, installation will be more difficult.
Before ordering wheel spacers, make sure you purchase a set that is compatible with your car’s wheel bolt pattern (ie: 5 x 120 mm). We also recommend that you only use hub centric wheel spacers, means which the wheel spacers will sit perfectly centered on the hub.
Step 5: Install the wheel spacers
Slip-On Wheel Spacers with Longer Wheel Bolts
As shown in this video from Eibach, you can easily install slip-on wheel spacers by following these steps.
Park your vehicle on a flat surface and apply the emergency brake.
Chalk off the wheels you aren’t working on.
Break the wheel bolts loose.
Jack up one corner at a time and remove the wheel.
Clean the surface of the hub with fine sandpaper, so the wheel spacer can sit flat on the hub.
Place the wheel spacer onto the hub.
Reinstall the wheel using the new wheel bolts and torque them to spec.
Bolt-On Wheel Spacers
Installing bolt-on wheel spacers differs slightly, but is still very easy to do. As shown in this video from Eibach, here are the steps.
Park your vehicle on a flat surface and apply the emergency brake.
Chalk off the wheels you aren’t working on.
Break the wheel bolts loose.
Jack up one corner at a time and remove the wheel.
Clean the surface of the hub with fine sandpaper, so the wheel spacer can sit flat on the hub.
Place the wheel spacer onto the hub.
Secure the wheel spacers with the supplied nuts and torque the nuts to the factory lug nut torque spec.
Reinstall the wheel using the new wheel bolts and torque them to spec.
Slip-On Wheel Spacers with New Studs
Installing slip-on wheel spacers and new studs is more difficult. We won’t get into the step-by-step details, but you’ll need to remove your brake calipers and rotors in order to replace the studs. To get an idea of how much work is involved, check out this video from WhattheHuck.
Products Recommendations
ECS Tuning
If you have a European car, we highly recommend ECS Tuning’s wheel spacer kits which include the proper wheel bolts for your application. Their wheel spacers are designed in-house and are precisely CNC machined out of 6061-T6 aluminum. You can find ECS Tuning wheel spacers here.
Eibach
Eibach is a famous manufacturer of suspension components that makes both slip-on and bolt-on wheel spacer kits for most vehicles. You can’t go wrong with Eibach. Find Eibach wheel spacers for your car here on Amazon.
As you can see, it’s easy to add wheel spacers to enhance your car’s looks and handling. Just remember to measure twice and cut once, so you purchase the right wheel spacers the first time around.
To see how you can save money on maintenance, check out our detailed maintenance guides. While we encourage car owners to do-it-yourself to save money, we understand DIY is not for everyone. Check out our service center recommendations to find a highly rated mechanic near you. Thanks for reading and subscribe to eCarGuides to get the latest information for all of your car ownership needs.
Wheel Spacer FAQs
Question: Will wheel spacers mess up my car?
Answer: By extending the wheels further out, wheel spacers put more stress will put more stress on your vehicle’s wheel bearings. This can lead to the wheel bearings failing prematurely. However, if you are only using wheel spacers that are 10 mm or less, the impact should be minimal.
Want to add Bluetooth to your car, but don’t want go through trouble of installing a new head unit? Fortunately, there are numerous cheap and quick solutions on the market. Let’s first determine what kind of head unit (aka “radio”) your car has. Here are the most common types:
A head unit without any external audio inputs (ie: Bluetooth, AUX, or iPod port).
One with only an AUX audio port.
A head unit designed to work with an iPod.
Read the rest of the article to determine which solution is best for you.
Bluetooth FM Transmitter
Easiest solution for a head unit with no external audio inputs
If you have a head unit without any external audio inputs, your options for adding Bluetooth to your car are limited. While a Bluetooth FM transmitter doesn’t provide the best audio quality, it’s cheap, requires no installation, and works on virtually any car. A Bluetooth FM transmitter is a mini radio station. It pairs with your smartphone via Bluetooth. Then, it broadcasts your phone’s audio as an FM signal, which your car’s head unit can pick up.
Products We Recommend
Nulaxy and Tecboss Bluetooth FM Transmitters
What we like
Works on any car with a radio and a power outlet
Costs less than $25
Has very good audio quality for an FM transmitter
Automatically reconnects with your phone
Contains physical buttons for easy music and phone call control
Includes built-in microphones and noise cancellation to enhance call quality
Has built-in USB port so you can power other devices
What we don’t like
Local radio signals can still interfere with the audio quality
Must be mounted near center console for built-in mic to work properly
Some customers are unable to get the devices to automatically reconnect with their phones
Hardwired Solution
Best solution for a head unit without external audio inputs
If you have a head unit with no external audio inputs, want the best audio quality, and want to retain your original head unit, this is your best bet. A hardwired solution connects directly to your head unit through the radio signal or CD changer input. It then is able to pair with your smartphone and transmit your phone’s audio to your head unit.
Products We Recommend
iSimple Tranzit Blu HF Hands-Free Calling and Music Streaming Kit
What we like
Audio quality is excellent
Device is hidden when installed
Comes with external microphone to improve call audio quality
Automatically reconnects with your phone
Includes external button for picking up calls, starting/stopping music, and launching your phone’s voice assistant
What we don’t like
More expensive than other solutions
If multiple devices are connected, you must manually select the device you want to use
Does not have an AUX input for you to physically plug in a device
Requires professional installation as shown below
Bluetooth Adapter for AUX Port
Best solution for a head unit with an AUX port
If your car has an AUX port for audio, you’re in luck. Through our testing, we’ve found that the best way to add Bluetooth is by using an AUX Bluetooth adapter. The AUX Bluetooth adapter pairs with your smartphone, then transmits the audio signal to your head unit via the AUX port. As a result, this solution has excellent audio quality and is not susceptible to interference.
Products We Recommend
Car link Bluetooth Aux Adapter
What we like
At under $15, this device is dirt cheap
Audio quality is much better than what you will find with a Bluetooth FM transmitter
Automatically reconnects with your phone
It can connect to two devices at a time
Works seamlessly with a car’s existing Bluetooth system for phone calls
Can be easily be hidden out of plain sight
Includes a 3 foot AUX cable extension
What we don’t like
Has built-in microphone for phone calls, but it only works well if you mount the device near you
It can have trouble automatically reconnect with your phone if your car’s power outlet stays on long after you turn the car off
Bluetooth Adapter for iPod Integration
Best for a head unit with iPod integration
If your car was designed to allow you to plug in an iPod for music, you also have a very good option for adding Bluetooth. This type of adapter connects to your phone via Bluetooth, then transmits the audio to your head unit over the iPod connection. The best part about this solution is that you’re able to retain all of your original factory audio controls on the steering wheel and head unit.
Products we recommend
Bovee WMA3000 Wireless Bluetooth for iPod Integration
For cars with newer iPOD interface
For Audi, VW, MB with older iPOD adapter
What we like
Works seamlessly in cars with iPod integration
It has excellent audio quality
Retains car’s factory iPod audio controls
Allows your car to display song names when using an iPhone
It automatically reconnects with your phone
What we don’t like
More expensive than other options
Only connects to one device at a time
Does not have a built-in mic to improve call quality
Conclusion
There you have it. As you can see, it’s cheap and easy to add Bluetooth to virtually any car nowadays. Just be sure you know what kind of head unit your car has and purchase a device that you can return in case you don’t like it.
To see how you can save money on maintenance, check out our detailed maintenance guides. While we encourage car owners to do-it-yourself to save money, we understand DIY is not for everyone. Check out our service center recommendations to find a highly rated mechanic near you. Thanks for reading and subscribe to eCarGuides to get the latest information for all of your car ownership needs.
Should you buy a used Porsche Cayenne? Unless you’re a car enthusiast or have deep pockets, probably not. The Porsche Cayenne is arguably the best SUV that can do it all, but be prepared for expensive maintenance and repair bills. If you decide to buy a used one, we recommend you buy an extended car warranty and find a good independent Porsche mechanic.
Introduction
The Porsche Cayenne is the 911 of SUVs. Brand new, top of the range Cayenne models cost over $100,000 and have over 500 horsepower. Today, you can pick up a used Porsche Cayenne for less than 20% of its original MSRP, but should you? In this article, we’ll walk you through the ownership considerations for each Porsche Cayenne generation.
Let’s start with a simple test. If you answer yes to the following questions, then the Porsche Cayenne could be right for you.
You want a great looking SUV with a premium feel.
Whether its hauling groceries around, carving canyons, or taking a serious trip off-road, you want an SUV that can do it all.
Fuel economy? If you cared, you would buy a Toyota Prius.
You’ve never towed anything in your life, but knowing that you “could” is cool 😎.
Occasionally spending $3,000 on repairs is not a big deal for you.
Now let’s cover the different Porsche Cayenne generations.
In 2003, Porsche began selling the very first Cayenne in the United States. The Cayenne marked uncharted territory for a sports car manufacturer. While Lamborghini released the LM002 in the 1980s, no sports car manufacturer had successfully developed a mass-market, premium SUV. With Porsche sales starting to recover in the late 1990s after the release of the Porsche 986 Boxster and 996 911, Porsche made a bold bet that it could extend its brand to the growing SUV market. To make the project financially viable, Porsche and Volkswagen co-developed the PL71 platform, which was used for the Porsche Cayenne, Volkswagen Touareg, and Audi Q7.
Now you might be thinking that the Porsche Cayenne is simply a rebadge Volkswagen Touareg. However, Porsche developed its own V8 drivetrains, suspension tuning, and exterior and interior designs. In 2003, the Porsche Cayenne made up 45% of Porsche’s U.S. vehicle sales. As a result, Porsche would eventually become the world’s most profitable automaker.
Porsche Cayenne 955 Trims
The 955 Cayenne was offered in 4 trims: Base, S, Turbo, and Turbo S. All trims came standard with all-wheel drive and a 6-speed Tiptronic transmission with a two-speed transfer case and locking center differential. Also, all 955s are rated to tow up to 7,716 lbs. As a result, the 955 Cayenne is a rugged SUV that is extremely capable off-road. So if any Jeep owners give you crap on the trail, just ask, “Dear sir, can your Jeep tow seven thousand, seven hundred and sixteen pounds?”.
Porsche Cayenne Base (V6)
The base 955 features a 3.2 liter V6 with 247 horsepower and 228 ft-lbs of torque. Due to its weight of nearly 4,800 pounds, the base 955 requires 9 seconds to do 0 to 60 mph and 16.5 seconds to complete the standing quarter-mile. You might think the V6 gives the base 955 decent fuel economy, but it only achieves 14 MPG (city) and 18 mpg (highway). On the upside, the base 955 is the only trim that you could get with a manual transmission, but good luck finding one 😊.
Porsche Cayenne S
The Cayenne S features a 4.5 liter V8 with 340 horsepower and 310 ft-lbs of torque. It also received larger 350mm brakes up front. If you want an SUV that won’t be a slouch to drive around town, the S checks the box. It can do 0-60 mph in 6.5 seconds and the 1/4 mile in 15 seconds. Despite the V8 engine, the S only takes a small hit in fuel economy over the base. It’s EPA rating is 12 MPG (city) and 17 MPG (highway). In 2006, Porsche offered a special version called the “S Titanium”. This package included many standard options such as 19 inch wheels, special exhaust tips, aero rocker panels, and two-tone leather.
Porsche Cayenne Turbo
At the time of its release, the Cayenne Turbo was the fastest production SUV in the world. It uses a twin-turbo, 4.5 liter V8 that puts out 450 horsepower and 460 ft-lbs of torque. As a result, the Cayenne Turbo can do 0 to 60 mph in 5.5 seconds and complete the quarter-mile in around 14.0 seconds. Despite the big power increase, the Cayenne Turbo is still rated at 12 MPG (city) and 17 MPG (highway). In addition, the Cayenne Turbo came with air suspension, a full leather interior, and revised front and rear fascias.
Porsche Cayenne Turbo S
The king of the 955 range is the Turbo S, which features a modified version of the Turbo’s engine. This increased horsepower to 520 and torque to 530 ft-lbs. The Turbo S also received the biggest brakes in the range featuring enormous 380 mm brake rotors up front and 358 mm brake rotors in the rear. The additional power allows the 955 Turbo S to shave half a second off its 0-60 mph and 1/4 mile times.
Reliability
If you’ve read this far and are convinced you want a 955 Cayenne, please be warned that you should read this section before making up your mind. Porsche Cayenne was wildly successful for Porsche’s first attempt, but it wasn’t without its faults. Let’s take a look at all the common issues.
Drive shaft support bearing (All 955s affected | $1,000 to fix)
The drive shaft is supported by a bearing that is known to fail around 40,000 to 60,000 miles. This issue happens on virtually every Cayenne and should be proactively addressed. If you don’t catch the issue early, add another $1,500 to the bill to replace the drive shaft.
V8 models featured, get this, plastic coolant pipes! Insane right? These coolant pipes eventually crack on virtually all V8 engines. If this issue isn’t addressed quickly, the coolant can leak down onto the transmission and ruin the transmission’s valve body, which will cost you an additional $1,500 to fix. Fortunately, the V6 models do not have this issue.
Water intrusion into the cabin (All 955s affected | Repair $ Depends on Severity)
Water can get into the cabin if you do not periodically clean out the various body drains that allow water to drain out of the vehicle. A certified Porsche mechanic can clean all the drains out as part of routine maintenance in less than an hour, so this problem is easily preventable. However, neglecting maintenance can set you back thousands of dollars depending on the severity of the water damage.
Transmission Valve Body (Early year 955s | $2,000 to fix)
Early year Cayennes could develop rough shifting due to how Porsche programmed the transmission control unit (TCU). Porsche later updated the TCU. However, if the issue wasn’t caught early, it would lead to a worn out transmission valve body.
Ignition coils (All 955s affected | $500 to $1,000 to fix)
You should consider the ignition coils as wear-and-tear items on the Porsche Cayenne. At round 60,000 to 80,000 miles, the ignition coils typically crack and fail, which can leave you stranded on the side of the road. You should expect to replace the ignition coils during every other spark plug change.
Water pump and thermostat (V8 955s affected | $1,500)
The coolant issues continue on V8 models. The water pump and thermostat are known to go out before 100,000 miles.
Air suspension compressor (955s with air suspension | $100 to fix) The 955’s air suspension is very reliable. However, some owners have reported air suspension compressor failures. Fortunately, the compressor just needs new seals. A mechanic can fix this for a few hundred dollars or you can fix it yourself for less than $100 with this repair kit.
V8 Bore Scoring (Rare problem on V8 models | $10,000+ to replace motor)
A small fraction of V8 Cayenne owners have reported bore scoring. Bore scoring occurs when the pistons contact the cylinder walls and score both surfaces. This issue is more likely to occur in cold climates where engines can struggle to get proper lubrication during startup. If you hear an audible thumping noise coming from the engine, beware.
Miscellaneous Issues (All 955s | Varies)
With 955s all being greater than 15 years old, you will run into a bunch of issues that older cars all face. These issues include the vacuum pump, alternator, wheel bearings, worn control arms, worn engine mounts, etc. These issues will cost you more to fix on a Cayenne than on your typical car. To avoid these issues, find a 955 with an extensive maintenance record or budget several thousands of dollars into the purchase price to get your used 955 back in tip top shape.
Value – FAIR
The 955 represents a fair value overall. While it’s cheap to purchase, it’s expensive to maintain and operate. Expect to budget around $7,500 per year for maintenance, operating costs, insurance, and registration. Let’s take a closer look at the expenses you can expect.
According to CarGurus data, the average 955 price ranges from $8,000 to just over $10,000. While the 955 has depreciated by ~20% in the last two years, most have already lost 85% of their original values. The 955 still has room to depreciate further, but you won’t lose more than a few thousand dollars over several years of ownership. The data isn’t broken out by trim, but expect to pay the following prices for a 955 in good shape:
Trim
Low End
High End
Cayenne (V6)
$6,000
$8,000
Cayenne S
$7,000
$10,000
Cayenne Turbo
$9,000
$10,000
Cayenne Turbo S
$14,000
$18,000
However, don’t fixate too much on prices. A 955’s mileage, condition, and service history will drastically impact how much it is worth. Given one or two “minor” repairs on a Cayenne can set you back a few thousand dollars, we recommend buying a 955 with verifiable service records even if it means paying a little bit more.
Maintenance
Maintenance is the next big expense item when it comes to owning a 955. Parts and labor are expensive and, given 955s are all nearly 15 years or older, a 955 will require frequent repairs. Expect to pay your independent mechanic $250 for an oil change. If you have a mild issue, such as a failed ignition coil, expect to pay at least $1,000. Despite the ability to purchase a 955 for less than $10,000, you’re still maintaining a car with an original purchase price of over $60,000 (in today’s money).
Operating Costs
Operating a 955 isn’t cheap due to the cost of consumables. Let’s break down the main operating expenses:
Expense
Price
Cost Per Mile
Premium gas
$3 per gallon (14 MPG)
$0.21
Tires
$1,200 (30k miles per set)
$0.04
Brakes
$1,800 (40k miles per set)
$0.045
Total
$0.30
Annual operating costs (@ 12,000 miles per year)
$3,600
For the main consumables alone, you can expect to pay around $3,600 per year. You’ll also need to factor in car insurance and registration. However, these costs should be pretty reasonable given the 955’s age.
In 2008, Porsche released the 957, which was actually just a mid-cycle refresh of the 955. Across the entire lineup, the 957 received new direct fuel injection (DFI) engines. The 957 also received revised front and rear fascias with more angular headlights and LED tail lights.
Porsche Cayenne 957 Trims
Porsche Cayenne (V6)
The Cayenne Base received an updated 3.6 liter V6 engine that pushed power and torque up to 290 horsepower and 273 ft-lbs. Despite the power increase, the new DFI engine also improved fuel economy to 14 MPG (city) and 20 MPG (highway). While rare to find, Porsche did continue to offer the base model with a 6-speed manual transmission.
Porsche Cayenne S
The S received a new 4.8 liter, DFI V8 with 385 horsepower and 369 ft-lbs of torque. Fuel efficiency increased slightly to 13 MPG (city) and 19 MPG (highway). The extra power allowed the 957 S to sprint 0 to 60 mph in 6 seconds and complete the standing quarter-mile in 14.5 seconds.
Porsche Cayenne GTS
The GTS is very similar to the Cayenne S, but features numerous upgrades. The GTS features the same 4.8 liter engine from the S, but Porsche tuned the engine to make 405 horsepower. Additionally, the GTS came with the following options as standard: sport design exterior package, 21 inch wheels, sport seats with Alcantara inserts, air suspension, and Porsche Sport Exhaust (PSE).
The GTS also could be equipped with a 6-speed manual transmission and Porsche Dynamic Chassis Control (PDCC). PDCC provides hydraulically controlled sway bars that can keep the Cayenne virtually flat while cornering. It also simulates disconnected sway bars to provide more suspension articulation in off-road scenarios. PDCC is a great option, but does present one more complex system that you’ll need to maintain.
Porsche Cayenne Turbo
The 957 Turbo received a twin-turbo 4.8 liter, DFI V8 which increased output to 500 horsepower and 516 ft-lbs of torque. With the extra power, the 957 Turbo can do 0-60 mph in 4.8 seconds and complete the 1/4 mile in 13.5 seconds. Fuel efficiency improved slightly to 12 MPG (city) and 19 MPG (highway). The Turbo also received larger brakes, a full leather interior, and air suspension as standard.
Porsche Cayenne Turbo S
The Turbo S uses a tuned version of the Turbo’s engine and puts out 550 horsepower and 553 ft-lbs of torque. As a result, the 957 Turbo S can do 0 to 60 mph in 4.5 seconds and the quarter-mile in 13.0 seconds. In addition, the Turbo S came with the following options as standard over the Turbo: PDCC, PSE, 21 inch wheels, sport design appearance package, and larger 380mm brake rotors up front.
Reliability
The 957 is slightly more reliable than the 955, but still has some of the old issues along with new ones. Let’s take a look at the issues you can expect.
Issue
Drive shaft support bearing (All 957s affected | $1,000 to $2,500 to fix)
Still an issue on the 957
V8 coolant pipe fitting (All V8s affected, but issue unlikely before 100k miles | $2,500 to fix)
The 957 V8 engines no longer use plastic coolant pipes. However, one of the coolant pipe fittings is glued to the thermostat housing. Over time, the glue can fail which will lead to a coolant leak. To fix the issue, a mechanic can simply pin the coolant pipe fitting in place. Unfortunately, your mechanic will need to remove the entire engine.
Water intrusion into the cabin (All 957s affected | Repair $ depends on severity)
Still an issue on the 957
Ignition coils (All 957s affected | $500 to $1,000 to fix)
Still an issue on the 957
Water pump and thermostat (All 957s affected | $1,500)
Still an issue on the 957
Air suspension compressor (957s with air suspension affected | $100 to fix yourself)
Still an issue on the 957
V8 Bore Scoring (Rare problem on V8 models | $10,000+ to replace motor)
The 957 represents as good of a value as the 955. While 957s are more expensive than 955s, they have depreciated a little less than the 955 in the last 2 years (~17% v.s ~20% respectively) because of the 957’s slightly better reliability. However, we still recommend budgeting around $7,500 per year for maintenance, operating costs, insurance, and registration.
In 2011, Porsche released the completely redesigned, second-generation Cayenne. Porsche carried over the 957 engines into the first generation of the 958, but upgraded the transmission to an 8-speed Tiptronic unit. From the exterior, the 958 received a more sleek and urban look. Porsche also was able to cut the Cayenne’s weight by nearly 400 pounds thanks to the use of a single-speed transfer case and lighter materials. The 958’s towing capacity remained unchanged at 7,716 pounds.
The 958 interior received a full redesign. The cabin design made the 958 feel much more modern and upscale. The 958 also marked the shift to Porsche’s “Panamera” interior style which features the center console that angles up towards the dashboard. Porsche never has been on the cutting edge of infotainment, but the 958 did give owners the ability to stream music via Bluetooth.
In 2015, Porsche released a mid-cycle refresh that featured revised front and rear fascias and new turbocharged V6 engines for the S and GTS models. In the next section, we’ll explore the main differences between various Cayenne versions.
Note: 958.1 refers to 2011 to 2014 model years. 958.2 refers to 2015 to 2018 model years.
Trims
Porsche Cayenne (V6)
During the entire 958 lifecycle, the base models featured a revised version of the 3.6 liter, DFI V6 engine from the 957. Power was bumped up to 295 horsepower and torque increased to 295 ft-lbs. In 2016, the base model received a 5 horsepower increase. Due to the lighter weight of the 958, MPG increased to a more respectable 19 MPG (city) and 24 MPG (highway). 0-60 mph also improved to around 7.5 seconds.
Porsche Cayenne Diesel
In 2013, Porsche introduced the first diesel version of the Cayenne in the United States. The Cayenne Diesel has a turbocharged 3.0 liter, V6 diesel engine which put out 240 horsepower and 406 ft-lbs of torque. The Diesel achieves a respectable 20 MPG (city) and 28 MPG (highway).
Porsche Cayenne S
From 2011 to 2014, the Cayenne S used the same V8 engine from the 957, but power increased to 400 horsepower. As a result of the 958’s lighter weight and slight bump in power, it can do 0-60 mph in ~5.5 seconds and the quarter mile in 14 seconds. Fuel economy also improved to 16 MPG (city) and 22 MPG (highway).
In 2015, Porsche gave the Cayenne S a new turbocharged, 3.0 liter V6 engines that put out 420 horsepower and 406 ft-lbs of torque. Thanks to the big bump in torque, the 958.2 Cayenne S can do 0 to 60 mph in 5 seconds and the quarter mile in 13.5 seconds. Fuel economy further improved to 17 MPG (city) and 24 MPG (highway).
Porsche Cayenne S Hybrid & S E-Hybrid
From 2011 to 2014, Porsche offered the Cayenne S Hybrid model which used a supercharged 3.0 liter V6 paired with an electric motor. It put out 380 horsepower and 428 ft-lbs of torque and could achieve 20 MPG (city) and 24 MPG (highway).
In 2015, Porsche released the Cayenne S E-Hybrid, which was Porsche’s first plug-in model. The S E-Hybrid has an all-electric range of up to 22 miles and a 47 MPG-equivalent fuel economy rating. Additionally, Porsche bumped power to 416 horsepower and torque to 435 ft-lbs. This allows the S E-Hybrid to do 0-60 mph in around 5.5 seconds and the quarter mile in the high 13 second range. Not bad for a family hauling hybrid!
Porsche Cayenne GTS
The 958.1 and 958.2 GTS use the same engines as their S equivalents. However, they received slight power bumps. Power and torque on the 958.1 increased to 420 hp and 380 ft-lbs. The 958.2 GTS received 440 horsepower and 443 ft-lbs of torque. Like the prior 957 GTS, the 958 GTS came with many options as standard over the S such as sport design exterior package, larger wheels, sport seats with Alcantara, PSE, and air suspension.
Porsche Cayenne Turbo & Turbo S
The 958 Turbo and Turbo S models utilize updated versions of the twin-turbo, 4.8 liter V8 engines from the 957. The 958.1 Turbo (2011-2014) came with 500 horsepower and 516 ft-lbs of torque. In 2015, Porsche bumped the Turbo’s power and torque to 520 horsepower and 553 ft-lbs.
The 958.1 Turbo S (2013-2014) received 550 horsepower and 516 ft-lbs of torque. Later, the 958.2 Turbo S (2015-2018) received 570 horsepower and 590 ft-lbs of torque. As a result, the range topping 958.2 Turbo S can do 0-60 mph in 4 seconds flat and complete the quarter mile in just 12.5 seconds.
Reliability
The 958 gave Porsche a chance to learn and address issues from the prior generation. While Porsche improved the 958’s overall reliability, the 958 still has its fair share of issues.
Issue
V8 Variocam Bolts Recall (Very likely on 2011 and early 2012 V8 models | Should be covered by recall)
2011 and early 2012 V8 Cayennes used aluminum bolts to secure the camshaft adjusters together. These bolts has been known to fail, which can cause serious engine damage. When purchasing a used 958, be sure this issue has been addressed.
Transfer Case (All 958s affected | $4,500 to fix)
With exception to diesel and hybrid models, some 958s owners experienced transfer case failures. As the transfer case begins to fail, you may experience the transmission slipping or accelerating/decelerating in a jerky manner. The exact cause of the problem is unknown. The current fix for the issue is a complete transfer case replacement.
V8 coolant pipe fitting (Early year V8s affected | $2,500 to fix)
The earlier model year V8 models are susceptible to the same coolant pipe fitting issue from the 957 V8 models. Later years used a revised thermostat housing that resolved the issue. This issue is not likely to affect a vehicle until after 100,000 miles.
Water intrusion into the cabin (All 958s affected | Repair $ varies)
Still an issue on the 958
Ignition coils (All 958s affected | $500 to $1,000 to fix)
Still an issue on the 958
V8 Bore Scoring (Rare issue on V8 models | $10,000+ to replace motor)
Unlikely on the 958, but still possible. Beware of vehicles from cold climates.
Value – Poor
The 958 Cayenne represents a poor value. At face value, you can buy an amazing SUV that can do-it-all from anywhere around $20,000 for an early year base model to $60,000 for a relatively new Turbo S. However, just like on the 955 and 957, expect to lose money on depreciation. According to CarGurus data, in the past 2 years, 958 Cayennes have depreciated by ~30% across the board. In addition, the 958 Cayenne will be just as expensive to maintain and operate. If you do decide to buy a 958, factor $6,000 to $9,000 per year for gas, maintenance, repairs, insurance, and registration.
Our Recommendation on Buying a Used Porsche Cayenne
A properly maintained Porsche Cayenne is an amazing SUV that can do it all. However, if you’re looking for a low maintenance SUV, the Porsche Cayenne is NOT RIGHT for you. On the other hand, if you have the interest and ability to do some of your own maintenance and repairs, a used Porsche Cayenne is actually a great value for what you get. If you do decide to buy a used Porsche Cayenne, we recommend you budget around $7,500 per year to cover maintenance and operating costs. We also recommend that you purchase an extended car warranty and find a good independent Porsche mechanic.
To see how you can save money on maintenance, check out our detailed maintenance guides. While we encourage Porsche owners to do-it-yourself to save money and get the full Porsche ownership experience, we understand DIY is not for everyone. Check out our service center recommendations to find a highly rated, Porsche mechanic near you. Thanks for reading and subscribe to eCarGuides to get the latest information for all of your car ownership needs.
A Porsche oil change costs between $300 to $500 at a Porsche dealership. Expect an independent mechanic to charge you around $200 to $250. However, if you are somewhat handy, you can do-it-yourself (DIY) for less than $100. Save money on your oil change by checking out our detailed DIY guides and independent mechanic recommendations.
Why Does a Porsche Oil Change Cost So Much?
Dealerships and independent mechanics all typically charge the same way for their services. You have parts, labor, and tax charges. Some shops will also tack on miscellaneous fees. Let’s break down each of these charges, so we can help you understand why an oil change on a Porsche is more expensive than on other cars.
Parts Required
You can expect to pay around $100 just in parts for a Porsche oil change, which requires a new oil filter, oil filter sealing ring, drain plug seal, and engine oil. While all these parts for a Honda Civic will cost you less than $20, Porsche parts are more expensive and you must use synthetic oil. Dealerships and independent mechanics will charge roughly the same prices for these parts.
You can save money by purchasing these parts online. However, most dealerships and independent mechanics do not accept outside parts from customers when it comes to maintenance. Now you might think it’s strange that you can buy parts for cheaper than dealerships and independent mechanics. They certainly get their parts for far cheaper than you can, but generally do not pass these savings onto customers. So, if Jiffy Lube or anyone else offers you an oil change for $19.99, RUN!
Part
Porsche Mechanic Costs
Do-It-Yourself Costs
Synthetic oil (6 to 10 quarts)
$48 to $80 (@ $8 per quart)
$36 to $60 (@ $6 per quart)
Oil filter & sealing ring
$30
$20
Drain plug seal
$4
$2
Parts Total
$82 to $114
$58 to $82
Labor Cost
You can expect to pay $120 to $250 in labor depending on whether you visit an independent mechanic or Porsche dealership. Labor cost can be broken down into two categories, labor rate and labor time required. While a Honda dealership charges around $100 per hour, a Porsche dealership can charge anywhere from $170 to $250 per hour depending on what part of the country you live in. Because of the brand, Porsche can charge more. Porsche mechanics can also command a higher premium because of their specialized skills. Going with an independent Porsche mechanic can save you money, but still expect to pay between $120 to $150 per labor hour.
Additionally, Porsche dealerships and independent mechanics typically charge around 1 hour of labor for an oil and filter change. On an ordinary car, quick lube centers can complete oil changes in 15 minutes by using specialized machines that can quickly extract and replace engine oil. They might not even replace the oil filters. However, a certified Porsche mechanic will do the job right by draining the oil pan. The actual process doesn’t take 1 hour, but you have to factor in setup and teardown time. A Porsche mechanic will also typically perform a multi-point inspection and top off fluids like coolant and brake, windshield wiper, and power steering fluid. While this is a nice gesture, it’s also an important way for dealerships and independent mechanics to up-sell you on higher margin services. A complete brake job on a Porsche can earn a dealership $1,000 in gross profits!
Taxes & Other Fees
Have you heard the saying, “there are only two things certain in life, death and taxes”? Expect to pay 10-15% on top of parts and labor for taxes and other miscellaneous fees. Some states charge sales tax on the total bill while other states like Texas do not tax labor. Dealerships and independent mechanics may also add on miscellaneous fees such as environmental, disposal, and shop supply fees.
How Often Should You Change Oil on Your Porsche?
Porsche’s recommended oil change interval is every 10,000 mile (15,000 kilometer) or 1 year, whichever comes first.
This is a maintenance item that you shouldn’t skip out on. Internal combustion engines rely on hundreds of moving parts, which need constant lubrication to reduce friction, dissipate heat, remove contaminants, maintain critical seals, and prevent corrosion. As you put on the miles (or kilometers), the engine oil will go through numerous heat cycles which break down the oil’s key protective properties. If you run your car with severely degraded oil or the incorrect oil level, you can cause major engine damage. Given a new Porsche engine can set you back over $30,000, we encourage you to think of routine oil changes as cheap insurance.
Do You Really Need to Use Synthetic Oil?
Yes! Because Porsche’s recommended oil change interval is every 10,000 miles (15,000 kilometers) or 1 year, whichever comes first, synthetic oil is a must. Synthetic oil is specially formulated to deal with the stresses of longer oil change intervals. Additionally, Porsche engines have higher power outputs than ordinary cars. This creates more stressful conditions for the engine oil. Under spirited driving conditions on a hot day or track day session, engine oil temperatures can quickly exceed 250℉ (121 ℃). Above this temperature, the viscosity on a conventional motor oil will. drop. Additionally, the additives in the oil will break down. This can lead to inadequate lubrication and metal-on-metal contact between the moving parts inside the engine. Synthetic oils like Mobil 1, Motul, and Liqui Moly are specially formulated for high performance applications.
Can You Change Your Oil Yourself?
Changing the oil on a Porsche yourself is easy as long as you have the proper tools, equipment, and workspace. It’s also a great way to save time and money while having fun learning about your car. If you are going to do it yourself, be sure to check out our detailed DIY guides and get a diagnostic scanner, like the Foxwell NT530, to reset the service light. The video below from Car Fanatic provides a great overview of just how easy it is to change the oil on a Porsche.
In general, here are the following tools and steps to performing an oil change on your Porsche.
For detailed instructions on how to change the oil on your specific Porsche, check out our detailed maintenance guides. While we encourage Porsche owners to do-it-yourself to save money and get the full Porsche ownership experience, we understand DIY is not for everyone. If you have doubts about your ability to safely and properly change your car’s oil, we have you covered.
Summary
A Porsche oil change costs between $300 to $500 at a Porsche dealership. Expect an independent mechanic to charge you around $200 to $250. However, if you are somewhat handy, you can do-it-yourself (DIY) for less than $100.
Should you buy a used Porsche 911? If you want an iconic sports car that is a great value, amazing to drive, and reliable, the answer is YES. Whether your budget is $15,000 or $100,000, the Porsche 996, 997, and 991 are awesome cars for everyone. Read the rest of our used Porsche 911 buyer’s guide to learn which model is right for you.
Introduction to Used Modern Porsche 911s
Porsche…there is no substitute, right? If you’re in the market for a premium sports car, you should at least consider a Porsche 911. Just a few years ago, I was in your exact shoes. After 10 years of lusting after an iconic sports car, I decided to take the plunge. I cross-shopped the Porsche 911, Acura NSX, and Aston Martin V8 Vantage. I researched these vehicles for nearly three months before ultimately purchasing a 2010 Porsche 911 Carrera S. For me, it came down to overall performance, driving precision, reliability, and value.
A used Porsche 911 could be right for you if:
You want an iconic sports car that you will still enjoy in 20 years.
The overall driving experience is more important to you than straight line acceleration.
You want a sports car that is also a reliable daily driver.
Owning a sports car makes no financial sense, so value is important to you.
Your days of flashiness and obnoxiousness are over; you prefer a classy car that doesn’t draw a lot of attention.
Let’s start by learning about the different used, modern Porsche 911 generations.
Porsche released the 996 generation in the United States in 1999. It represented a radical departure from 911 generations of the past for a few reasons. First, Porsche replaced the traditional air-cooled, flat six engine with a water-cooled engine. This allowed Porsche to comply with more strict emission standards while creating a more powerful, fuel efficient, and reliable engine.
Second, while Porsche kept the basic silhouette of the 911, Porsche went with a more bubbly design. Many long-time enthusiasts criticized the move away from the iconic round headlights to the “fried egg” headlights. Porsche continued the bubbly design theme into the interior. Prior 911 generation interiors utilized horizontal lines in their designs. However, the 996 interior, from the dashboard to center console to door cards, received the rounded off, bubbly treatment. Additionally, most people will find the interior build quality to be pretty bad compared to modern standards.
Despite the lackluster reception from Porsche enthusiasts, the 996 along with the Porsche 986 Boxster, helped save Porsche from the brink of financial disaster. Compared to just over 67,000 units of the prior 993 generation sold, Porsche sold over 170,000 996 units worldwide.
Performance
996.1 (1999 – 2001 Carrera trims)
The 996 received numerous performance upgrades over the prior 993. Porsche initially offered the 996 only in the naturally aspirated Carrera trim. However, you could select from coupe to cabriolet, rear wheel drive to all-wheel drive, and 6-speed manual to 5-speed automatic (aka Tiptronic). It featured a 3.4 liter flat-six with 296 horsepower and 258 ft-lbs of torque. Paired with a 6 speed manual, the 2,900 pound 996 can do 0-60 mph in around 5 seconds and finish the standing quarter-mile in around 13.5 seconds. That was fast in 1999 and still respectable by today’s standards.
However, the 996 received the biggest performance improvement in the handling department. Prior 911 generations were known for snap oversteer (aka lift off oversteer) because their engines sit behind the rear axle. When entering a corner, a 911 driver would have to modulate the throttle to keep weight over the rear tires. If you go into a corner too fast and abruptly lift off the throttle, the vehicle’s weight will shift forward and cause the rear tires to lose traction. This can lead to snap oversteer, which is why journalists called the first 911 Turbos “the widow maker.” To mitigate snap oversteer, Porsche revised the 996’s suspension and threw in Porsche Stability Management (PSM) to keep drivers out of trouble. As a result, you can drive a 996 faster more easily than you can prior 911 generations.
If you care about straight line acceleration as much as handling, the 996 Turbo could be your answer. In 2001, Porsche released the grand daddy Turbo model. The 996 Turbo features revised, more angular headlights and the distinctive air intake vents on the rear quarter panels. The 911 Turbo combines excellent handling, precision, and straight line performance.
The 996 Turbo features a powerful, turbocharged 3.6 liter flat-six that produced 415 horsepower and 413 ft-lbs of torque. Combined with all-wheel drive, this means the 996 Turbo isn’t your old-school Dodge Challenger Hellcat. The 996 Turbo can put all its power down to the ground, which allows it to sprint from 0-60 mph and complete the quarter-mile in 4 seconds and 12.5 seconds respectively. Still not impressed? Find a 996 Turbo with the X50 package because this option bumps power to 450 horsepower. You can also slap on a performance ECU chip, bigger intercoolers, and a full exhaust system and push the 996 Turbo to over 500 horsepower.
In 2002, Porsche carried over the revised headlights to the 996 Carrera models (aka 996.2) and upgraded the engine to a 3.6 liter flat-six producing 320 horsepower and 273 ft-lbs of torque. This allowed the 996.2 Carrera models to shave off a couple tenths of a second 0-60 mph and in the 1/4 mile.
Reliability
Compared to other premium sports cars of its era, the 996 is a relatively reliable car. Porsche used a 3.4 liter M96 engine for the 996.1 Carrera, then later used a 3.6 liter version starting in 2002. With 20 years passing, we know what the major 996 issues are.
The engine’s crankshaft connects to an intermediate shaft (IMS) that drives the camshafts. The IMS uses a sealed bearing which can fail. If this happens, the entire engine is ruined. 996 experts estimate the IMS issue affects around 5% to 10% of M96 engines. The other issue on the M96 engine is a leaky “rear main seal” (RMS). Fortunately, the RMS issue is not catastrophic and you can easily spot it because the engine will leak oil. However, don’t let these issues deter you. A mechanic can proactively fix these issues for around $3,000.
The 996 Turbo uses a very reliable Mezger engine and doesn’t suffer from the IMS and RMS issues. Porsche designed the Mezger engine for Le Mans racing, so it had to be able to withstand the toughest abuse. There’s only one real issue to call out on the 996 Turbo, which happens to be a small, but expensive issue.
On the 996 Turbo engine, there’s a coolant line that is glued into the water pump housing. Over time, the glue on the coolant line can fail. This can cause a minor coolant leak and, in some cases, a major coolant leak if the coolant line completely detaches from the water pump housing. While this is a minor issue, you must remove the entire engine to fix it. We suggest you factor an additional $3,000 into your budget.
Value – GREAT
The Porsche 996 is a great value today. It provides arguably the most visceral driving experience of any 911. It feels small compared to later 911 generations, has telepathic steering, and has just enough electronic aids to keep you out of trouble. Despite the “fried egg” headlights, the 996 has a beautiful silhouette, especially the wide body Carrera 4S and Turbo models. Fortunately for car buyers who prioritize driving dynamics over looks, this makes the 996 THE BEST value Porsche 911 you can buy today.
996 prices vary drastically by trim. As of 2020, the most desirable GT3 and GT2 trims can fetch over $80,000 and $140,000 respectively. The most affordable 996 will be the 1999 to 2001 Tiptronic Cabriolet variants, which are priced around $13,000 to $18,000 for your typical examples. Generally, for a low mileage, 6-speed manual coupe, expect to pay between $20,000 to $30,000 for a Carrera model and $45,000 to $60,000 for a Turbo or Turbo S.
Let’s cover two other very important considerations when buying a used Porsche 911.
Depreciation is typically the largest expense when purchasing a new car. Fortunately, with most 996 models being nearly 20 years old, depreciation isn’t really a factor. According to CarGurus.com, 996 prices have remained virtually flat over the last two years and some years have actually appreciated by ~10% in the last year. This makes the 996 a tremendous value because you can essentially drive it for several years and sell it later for not much less than you paid for it.
Maintenance
So, let’s move onto what you’re probably wondering. Are Porsches expensive to maintain? The short answer is yes…compared to an ordinary car. Porsches are more expensive to maintain because parts cost more and so does specialized labor. While a Ford or Toyota mechanic charges $70-$100 per hour, a Porsche mechanic can easily charge double for their specialized skills.
In a typical year of driving, expect to spend $300 to $800 on basic maintenance items such as an oil change, cabin air filter, windshield wiper blades, and fluid replacements. Every 30,000 to 50,000 miles, spend another $1,800 to replace the brake pads and rotors. Every 15,000 to 20,000 miles, expect to spend another $1,300 on a new set of premium tires like the Michelin Pilot Sport 4S.
Budget $2,000 per year for maintenance and unexpected repairs. However, you can save a lot of money by doing some of the work yourself and using an honest, independent mechanic. Here at www.eCarGuides.com, you can find do-it-yourself (DIY) tutorials for all the routine maintenance services on modern Porsches. We also help you find highly rated, independent Porsche mechanics in your area.
In 2005, Porsche released the 997. The 997 pleased enthusiasts by returning to the traditional 911 form. Porsche replaced the fried egg headlights with round ones and crafted an interior with excellent build quality. Underneath the exterior, Porsche primarily evolved the 996 chassis into the 997. The 997’s wheelbase, at 92.5 inches, remains relatively unchanged from the 996. However, the 997 did grow about 1.5 inches wider and 175 pounds heavier.
It’s also important to point out that the 997 came in two generations commonly referred to as the 997.1 and 997.2. Most notably, the 997.2 introduced new direct-fuel injection (DFI) engines across the lineup. The 997.2 also first introduced the Porsche Doppelkupplung (PDK), dual-clutch automatic transmission across all trims and Porsche Torque Vectoring (PTV) in Turbo models.
The 997.2 Carrera models have revised front and rear fascias to accommodate new LED lighting. The 997.2 Turbo models just received revised rear fascias. The easiest way to differentiate a 997.2 from a 997.1 is by looking at the rear tail lights. The 997.2’s tail lights are curved on the bottom while the 997.1’s are straight. Other minor improvements to the 997.2 include a revised navigation system and climate control interface.
Porsche 911 (997.2) with revised tail lights and rear bumper (Image by Toby Parsons from Pixabay)
Performance
The 997 received numerous performance enhancements over the 996 from additional power, larger brakes, revised suspension, and improved stability management. Additionally, Porsche introduced Porsche Active Stability Management (PASM) which allows the 997 to actively adjust its dampers to suit road conditions. Here are the most notable performance improvements across the 997 lineup.
997.1 Carrera Models (2005-2008)
Base models have a revised version of the 3.6 liter M96 engine (known as the M97), which produces out 325 hp and 273 ft-lbs of torque. S models use a 3.8 liter version of the M96, which produces 355 horsepower and 295 ft-lbs of torque. The S models also use larger brakes borrowed from the 996 Turbo. As a result of the power increases, 997.1 base models could do 0-60 mph in around 4.8 seconds and the 1/4 mile in around 13.0 seconds. S models could do 0-60 mph in 4.5 seconds and the 1/4 mile in 12.8 seconds.
997.1 Turbo (2007-2009)
Porsche made numerous enhancements to the 997.1 Turbo over the 996 Turbo. The 996 Turbo uses a revised version of the prior Mezger engine. Porsche increased power from 415 to 480 hp and torque from 413 to 460 ft-lbs. Additionally, Porsche leveraged variable geometry turbochargers to reduce turbo lag and give the 997.1 Turbo a more usable power band. The help manage the extra power, Porsche introduced Porsche Traction Management (PTM) and gave the 997.1 Turbo more power brakes.
The 997.1 Turbo also marks the first time where the Tiptronic transmission provides faster acceleration than the manual transmission. Since the Tiptronic transmission can produce boost during launches and shift faster than a manual transmission, the 997.1 Turbo can do 0 to 60 mph and the quarter-mile in respectively 3.5 seconds and 11.8 seconds. Manual transmission versions are slower by a couple tenths of a second. 997.2 Carrera Models (2009-2012)
Porsche revised the entire powertrain on the 997.2. Porsche ditched the M97 engine in favor of a direct fuel injection (DFI) engine. The new DFI engine is not only more powerful, but achieves better fuel economy and reduces emissions. Base models feature a 3.6 liter, flat-six DFI engine with 345 hp and 287 ft-lbs of torque. S models feature a 3.8 liter version with 385 hp and 310 ft-lbs of torque.
Both base and S models could be equipped with Porsche’s new 7-speed PDK transmission. PDK combined with the Sport Chrono option gives the 997.2 launch control, which significantly reduces 0 to 60 mph times. Base models with PDK can sprint 0 to 60 mph in 4.5 seconds and complete the 1/4 mile in just 12.8 seconds. S models can do 0 to 60 mph in just 4.0 seconds and the 1/4 mile in 12.4 seconds.
997.2 Turbo (2010-2013)
In 2010, Porsche released the 997.2 Turbo, which can be distinguished from the 997.1 Turbo by the revised LED tail lights and center lock wheels. The second generation Turbo received the PDK transmission and a new DFI engine putting out 500 hp and 480 ft-lbs of torque. The Turbo S model received 530 hp and 516 ft-lbs of torque, which allows it to propel from 0 to 60 mph in less than 3 seconds and complete the 1/4 mile in just 11 seconds flat.
During this era, Porsche also had to make sure the 911 Turbo could compete against its more recently released competitors such as the Audi R8 and Nissan GTR. Porsche revised the 997.2 Turbo suspension and introduced Porsche Torque Vectoring (PTV). As a result of the performance improvements, the 997.2 Turbo lapped the Nürburgring Nordschleife in just 7:39 minutes versus the 2008 Nissan GTR’s time of 7:54 (test conducted by Porsche).
Reliability
The 997.1 Carrera models are more reliable than their equivalent 996 models. However, they can still suffer from the same IMS issue. Early 2005 vehicles have a higher change of IMS failure while experts estimate 2006 to 2008 vehicles only have around a 1% failure rate. To be on the safe side, you can still have a mechanic install an IMS bearing retrofit kit for $2,000 to $3,000. The 997.1 Turbo proves to be as reliable as the previous 996 Turbo though Porsche did not resolve the coolant line issue.
Moving onto the 997.2 generation, the new DFI engines in the Carrera and Turbo models have proven to be extremely reliable. These engines do not use intermediate shafts, so you don’t have to worry about the IMS issue. Additionally, owners aren’t reporting many instances of carbon buildup, which is common on Audi and BMW DFI engines.
With both the 997.1 and 997.2 naturally-aspirated and turbo engines, a few owners have reported instances of bore scoring (aka cylinder scoring due to metal on metal contact). However, this issue seems to only affect a very small percentage of vehicles and is more likely to affect vehicles in cold weather climates. If you plan on purchasing a 997 and want peace of mind, you can have your mechanic borescope the engine’s cylinders during the pre-purchase inspection. Other than the issues mentioned here, 997 is proving to be extremely reliable.
Value – Good
The 997 is also a good value by today’s standards. It’s new enough to have modern performance, but isn’t so new that the analog driving nature is gone. The 997 is a much better looking car than the 996, but this makes it harder for you to get as good of a deal on one. As with the 996, 997 values will vary based on the exact variant. On the cheap end of the spectrum, you can get a high mileage 997.1 Carrera Cabriolet with Tiptronic transmission for under $30,000. On the high end, a 997.2 GT3 RS 4.0 will set you back well over $300,000. In general, expect to pay around $45,000 to $55,000 for a nice 997.2 Carrera S or 4S. Turbo models range from around $55,000 for a 997.1 Turbo Cabriolet with Tiptronic to around $100,000 for a 997.2 Turbo S.
Let’s talk about depreciation. As shown in the data above from CarGurus.com, 997 values have been slowly depreciated by ~6% overall in the last two years. But, we need to dig into the nuances to understand what models are depreciating the most. More expensive, non-special models like the 997 Turbo and Turbo S are still depreciating. This is corroborated by the steeper depreciation curves for the model years with higher average prices. The average price for 2011 model year is the highest and has been appreciating, but this is largely driven by the astronomical rise in GT3 RS and GT3 RS 4.0 prices. Manual transmission, low mileage 997.1 S models have been hovering around $40,000 while their 997.2 counterparts have been hovering in the $50,000 price range.
In my personal experience, after owning my 2010 911 Carrera S for 5 years and putting 15,000 miles on it, the car has depreciated about $7,000. While this is not bad at all for a premium sports car, it’s by no means insignificant and should be factored into the total cost of ownership. To estimate how much depreciation you could encounter if you were to purchase a 997, you can use the following values, which are conservative, as depreciation floors:
997.1 Carrera base models – $15,000
997.1 Carrera S models – $20,000
997.2 Carrera base models – $25,000
997.2 Carrera S models – $30,000
997.1 Turbo – $40,000
997.2 Turbo models – $50,000
GT models – Minimal depreciation if any
Maintenance
Maintenance and other running costs on a 997 should be a bit lower than on a 996 given its newer age. Expect to budget $1,500 per year for routine maintenance and small repairs. Or, if you’re willing to do your own maintenance, you can get away with spending around $800 per year.
Total Cost of Ownership from My Experience
In my 5 years of owning my 997.2 Carrera S, I replaced the tires and brakes once, conducted oil changes each year, and replaced the fluids and filters. By doing all of my maintenance and minor repairs myself, I’ve managed to spend less than $3,200 over the past 5 years (with the tires and brakes making up the majority of the expenses). Also, with the 997 as my second car, I pay around $900 a year for full coverage insurance. Factoring in gas, registration, maintenance, depreciation, etc, owning my 997 has cost me around $4,000 per year. Not bad huh? For more details check out my cost of ownership video below.
Is newer always better? With Porsche, the latest generation is almost guaranteed to have better performance than the prior generation. In 2012, Porsche released the all new 991 which represented the biggest advancement to the 911 since the 996. The 991 maintained much of the 997’s silhouette, but the proportions are more muscular and round. The interior received the Panamera center console treatment, which is raised as it connects to the dashboard.
The 991 represents two major milestones for the 911. The 991.1 (2012-2016) marked the shift of the 911 from a hydraulic to an electric steering rack. While Porsche makes arguably the best feeling electric steering rack today, Porsche enthusiasts claimed it could not match the feel of the 997’s hydraulic steering rack.
Then in 2017, Porsche unveiled the 991.2 which was the first time all 911 models became turbocharged. The 991.2 also received revised front and rear fascias to differentiate it from the 991.1. As expected, Porsche enthusiasts decried the addition of the turbochargers as a move away from the 911’s characteristic, linear power. It’s undoubtable though that Porsche significantly improved the 991’s performance and allowed it to continue dominating its class.
Performance
Porsche made big improvements to the 991’s handling. Despite overall length growing by 2.8 inches, the 991 weighed about 50 pounds less than the 997. By increasing the 991’s length, Porsche was able to extend the wheelbase by 3.9 inches and move the engine nearly 3 inches closer towards the rear axle. This allowed Porsche to improve the 991’s front-to-rear weight distribution from 40/60 to roughly 42/58. These changes allow the 991 to be more balanced and stable at higher speeds.
In addition, Porsche offered new performance features such as dynamic engine mounts, Porsche Dynamic Chassis Control (PDCC), Porsche Torque Vectoring on select models. Later 991.2 models could also be optioned with rear wheel steering to improve low speed agility and high speed stability. Let’s take a look at the notable performance improvements across the two 991 generations.
Porsche 991.1 Carrera Models (2012 – 2016)
The 991.1 uses a revised version of the DFI engine from the 997.2. Porsche actually reduced displacement on the base models from 3.6 to 3.4 liters. However, power and torque increased to 350 hp and 287 ft-lbs. S models kept the 3.8 liter DFI engines, but power and torque increased to 400 hp and 325 ft-lbs. Porsche also refined the PDK transmission, so it could shift faster and better predict what gear to be in. In 2015, Porsche introduced the GTS models which bumped power to 430 hp.
In terms of straight line acceleration, the 991 models are only moderately faster than their respective 997 models. Base models with PDKs can do 0-60 mph in around 4.5 seconds and complete the 1/4 mile in around 12.8 seconds. S models can do 0-60 mph in around 4.2 seconds and complete the 1/4 mile in around 12.2 seconds. Additionally, the 991.1 received larger brakes over the 997. S models received larger, 6 piston brake calipers up front.
Porsche 991.2 Carrera Models (2017-2019)
In 2017, Porsche introduced a new 3.0 liter, turbocharged DFI motors for the 991.2 Carrera models. The base and S model engines are essentially the same, however, they have different turbochargers. While the base and S models received moderate power increases to 370 hp and 420 hp respectively, torque increased on both by nearly 40 ft-lbs.
The new motor gives the 991.2 much more usable low-end power and torque. As a result, the 991.1 Carrera can do 0 to 60 mph in under 4 seconds and complete the 1/4 mile in the low 12 second range. The S models can do 0 to 60 mph in around 3.5 seconds and complete the 1/4 mile in 11.5 seconds. And, if that’s not fast enough, you can add an ECU tune and aftermarket exhaust system, which will give you another 100 horsepower.
Porsche 991 Turbo Models (2014-2019)
Porsche produced the 991.1 Turbo from 2014 to 2016. It features a 3.8 liter flat-six with 520 hp and 487 ft-lbs of torque. The 991.1 Turbo S puts out 560 hp. In 2017, Porsche released the 991.2 which features updated front and rear fascias and 20 additional horsepower for both Turbo and Turbo S models.
The 991 Turbo still remained the king of the drag strip in the premium sports car segment. In a 991.1 Turbo S, MotorWeek hit 0-60 mph 2.9 seconds and completed the 1/4 mile in just 10.8 seconds. In a 991.2 Turbo S, Motor Trend ran a 10.5 second quarter mile. Not even a Tesla Model S P100D can top those times.
The other important thing to call out about the 991 Turbo models are their impressive handling. The GT3 is the 911 that gets all the attention when it comes to handling, but the 991 Turbo is no slouch. In the hands of everyday drivers, the 991 Turbo is actually faster around most circuits. Despite its weight, the 991 Turbo can out accelerate the GT3 RS on the straightaways and on corner exit thanks to its power advantage, all-wheel drive system, PDCC, PTV, and rear-wheel steer.
Reliability
The 991 is extremely reliable just like its 997.2 predecessor. In 2019,JD Powers ranked Porsche as the second most dependable brand behind Lexus. JD Power also ranked the 911 as the most dependable car model!
Value – Fair
The 991 is a good value sports car compared to its peers. However, compared to the 997 and 996, the 991 is only a fair value. To get into a 991, expect to shell out at least $50,000 for a 991.1 base model in good conditions and typical mileage. A 991.1 Carrera S or 4S will run you from around $60,000 to $70,000. The cheapest 991.2 you can find will set you back at least $70,000. As for maintenance and running costs, you can expect to spend a bit more on a 991 than a 997. The 991 uses more technology, which adds complexity and costs in the event you have an issue. However, depreciation is what really drags down the 991’s overall value.
With the 991 being a much newer 911, there is simply more room for these vehicles to depreciate. According to CarGurus.com data, 2017 to 2019 991s have depreciated by over 20% in the last two years. 2012-2016 models have depreciated by around 6% in the last year. Unsurprisingly, expect less depreciation on earlier model year 991s.
Additionally, the options your 991 is equipped with will also play a role in its resale value. 991 coupes with manual transmissions and rare color combinations and options will hold its value better than your rental car variant. Definitely factor in these depreciation rates into your total cost of ownership. Insurance and registration will also be more expensive on a 991 given its newer age. All-in-all, owning a 991 will be more expensive than owning a 997 or 996.
Final Recommendations on Buying a Used Porsche 911
The 911 is perhaps the most iconic sports car for good reason. Used water-cooled 911s offer a lot of value, reliability, practicality, performance, and overall driving engagement that is hard to match. While there may be a better sports car for you, don’t overlook the 911. Test drive one and see how you like it.
Here’s a summary of my recommendation for you.
The 996 is right for you if:
You want to own a Porsche 911, but don’t want to spend over $25,000.
The “fried egg” headlights don’t bother you that much.
You want a truly analog car that will test your abilities as a driver.
Infotainment, who needs that when you can listen to the engine?
The 997 is right for you if:
You care about value, but you can’t stand the “fried egg” headlights.
Modern performance and build quality are important to you.
You want a sports car that will be very easy to live with and maintain.
The 991 is right for you if:
You believe newer is better.
While you’d love to own a 992, it’s just more than you are willing to spend on a toy.
You want a sports car with all the modern creature comforts.
A used Porsche 911 is not right for you if:
Handling? Driving experience? What? Let’s talk about horsepower and torque. Um…did you read the very first section of this article? I suggest you check out the C8 Corvette.
Only the 996 is within my budget, but damn those fried egg headlights are ugly. Have you heard of the 987 Boxster and Cayman? Stay tuned for the 987 Buyer’s Guide that’s coming out soon 😉.
But, but I really really want a 997 or 991. I don’t want a poor man’s Porsche. The Boxster and Cayman are every bit as pure of a Porsche as the 911 and are arguably better driver’s cars. But, I understand. Don’t settle. Save up until you can afford the 911 you want.u.
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